Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance
Preparation: If going directly over sub straight (No other coating on it) make sure it is completely dry.
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion to the surface.
If going over other products you are required to follow our application instructions as well as the application requirements for additional coats over existing product. It is very important to know the product you are going over.
SURFACE PREPARATION:
Concrete:
By nature is not only a very porous product but also has a tendency to retain moisture for a long period of time. Although it may look dry on the surface there actually is a lot of moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity. Cure time will depend on the water-cement ratio. A simple test takes an 18-inch by 18-inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the concrete and seal it on all four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the concrete surface is found, the concrete is too wet for coating. Make sure the sheet does not come in contact with direct sunlight. You can also use a moisture meter. Keep in mind that moisture meters measure the top inch and concrete dries from the top down moisture levels need to be less than 7%.
Make sure when you apply, all your membrane terminations must be above the water line and dry.
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion of the Dura-Rubber to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
Metal:
You should be sure to remove all loose rust, and scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
Wood:
Wood by nature tends to retain moisture. Although it may look dry on the surface there could be moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity. Cure time will depend on the water-cement ratio. A simple test takes an 18-inch by 18-inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the wood and seal it on all four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the wood surface is found, the wood is too wet for coating. You can also use a moisture meter. Keep in mind that moisture meters measure the top inch and wood dries from the top down moisture levels need to be less than 7%.
If you are applying to dimensional lumber such as decks, picnic tables and docks you must completely coat all four sides of the lumber or the wood will swell and split the coating.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application (Caution on un-coated concrete you will be driving water into the concrete that increases the dry time) when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with the application.
After all, surfaces are thoroughly dry inspect for cracks, holes and any surface irregularities that will need to be repaired prior to Spray, or roller/brush Dura-Rubber. We recommend doing an adhesion test before a final application.
Always do an adhesion test prior to doing full application.
The product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN PRODUCT.
Repairing Crack in Concrete or Other Mediums (up to "1/4 cracks or gaps) Repairs should be made with an application of followed by an embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 4" in width, with 2" each direction from repair at all open joints, seams, cracks, holes, or areas of damage as well as at all penetrations, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by specification to be part of the waterproof envelope. Application on new wood, concrete, or ferrous metals should follow the same guidelines as repairs with all seams, joints, imperfections, or penetrations, inside or outside corners, pans, thresholds, or surfaces edges or transitions treated with a coat of , embedded reinforcement cloth and a top-coat of prior to additional coats or final sprayed membrane. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat - thickness determined by below Application Rate:
Mixing:
Mix well with a drill and mixing paddle. Let stand for about 10 min before applying.
Application:
With Dura-Rubber Hi-Build you are applying a thick waterproof membrane. After Preparation detailed above. You will need to apply 1 coat primer at about 300sf per gallon depending g on surface roughness. Let dry 4 -10 hours depending on temperature and humidity for underwater applications let dry 48 hours.
Hi-build can be applied a number of ways.
Horizontal surfaces you can use a brush, epoxy roller cover or a rubber trowel to spread the coating.
Hi-Build can be sprayed on all surfaces using a 3000psi+ 1-gallon+ pm with a .027 tip.
Remove all filters to avoid clogging.
You need to apply a thick coat to allow for the product to level about an 1/8 inch thick for floors . For walls you will need to spray on about 10-15 mils per coat to prevent sagging. Floors can be back rolled the by locking the roller cover and pulling towards you to smooth out the coating. Remember you are not painting you a spreading the coating. It will need to be applied to a level surface. If you have any low spots fill them with a separate coat. Do not apply in the direct Sun. If you do get any roller or trowel marks they can, be sandaled or use a sharp floor scrapper in the first 24 hours after application touch up after any repaired areas. F
Spraying on walls you will need to do two coats to avoid sagging. Let dry 24 hours between coats.
You can patch cracks and voids by adding crumb rubber mix to high build to make a paste. This can be sanded smooth when dry you have a window of about 24 hours.
Rates of Application are typical and can very depending of the text of the substrate. The rougher the surface the more product required.
We suggest you do a test area to get know the product.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours and will be waterproof. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific applications please do not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above an RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. The coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon. High humidity will slow dry time.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.