Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance
Dura-Rubber – Metal
Applying Dura-Rubber over metal as a waterproofer corrosion protection.
Applying fabric and product per application chart on all the seams penetrations, splits, or cracks in the field, wall caps, and intersections with walls. you can extend the life of the roof 5 and even 10 years depending on the condition of the field. Just follow the simple directions below.
While you're on the roof the Dura-Rubber works great to protect and mechanical equipment from rust and UV go to the following links (HVAC Equipment coatings & Swamp Coolers in this chart)
SURFACE PREPARATION:
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion to the surface.
If going over other products you are required to follow our application instructions as well as the application requirements for additional coats over existing product. It is very important to know the product you are going over.
You should be sure to remove all loose rust, and scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism COMPLETELY DRY. We recommend to wipe down with acetone before application to remove any oils from manufacturing.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces before application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with an application.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces before application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with an application.
Always do an adhesion test prior to doing full application, you do not need to wait for your order you can do an adhesion test with any quality primer.
The product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended before use. DO NOT THIN PRODUCT.
Application Rate: Dura-Rubber
Rates of Application are typical:
20 mils dry Coverage is about 40-50sf per gallon.
Apply at the rate maximum of 10 mil per coat two minimum of two coats required.
Remember you are not applying the paint you are applying a liquid membrane.
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying Times:
Drying times are typical:
Prep coat.
Brushed or Rolled Dura Rubber will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied.
Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 1-2 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature, and relative humidity.
Application Coat
For a 20mil coat, it will take one gallon to get 20mil dry (40sfper gallon). The Dura-Rubber is 60% solids , so if you apply 3ea 10mil coats, you will get 18mil dry close enough. The easiest way to do it. If you purchased 4 fives, that is enough to cover 800sf at 20mil, so if your pond has 800sf apply until it is gone. 10mil coats would be about the max per coat you can apply without cracking due to the water in the product escaping during drying. To give you an idea, latex paint for walls goes on at about 1-2 mill per coat about as thick as copy paper. The thickness required will vary depending on the application.
Products needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat before the next application coat. Otherwise, the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between application coats is approximately 1-3 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours and will be waterproof in about 8. If However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water continuously. if it is going to be submerged in water it needs to be vulcanized. The process of "Vulcanization" can take 7-10 days. Depending on temperature and humidity SEE BELOW.
You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or submerge in water until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail, or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail, or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above an RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. The coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.