DUR-RUBBER HIGH-BUILD
Step-by-Step Instructions for Applying Dura-Rubber High-Build
Step 1: Prepare the Surface
- Clean Thoroughly: Remove all dirt, dust, grease, oil, loose material, mold, mildew, or anything that could affect adhesion. Use a 2,500 PSI pressure washer with detergent if needed (avoid over-washing to prevent driving water into concrete). For mildew, apply a 5% chlorine bleach solution, rinse well, and let dry fully.
- Special Prep for Fiberglass, Epoxy Paints, Glossy Surfaces and plastics: surface should be scuff-sand with medium-grit sandpaper (e.g., 120-150 grit) to roughen the surface, then wipe with acetone to remove dust and oils. Let it dry fully before proceeding. These materials should be primed.
- Ensure Dryness: The surface (e.g., concrete) must be completely dry (less than 7% moisture). Use a moisture meter to test multiple spots, especially low areas, as concrete retains moisture deep down. If damp, use fans to dry it out.
- Moisture Test: Before proceeding, confirm the surface is dry:
- Use a moisture meter to check multiple areas, especially low spots where water collects. Readings must be below 7% moisture (concrete dries top-down, so surface dryness isn’t enough).
- If no meter is available, tape a 12"x12" plastic sheet to the surface with airtight edges (e.g., duct tape). Wait 24 hours—if condensation forms underneath, the surface is too wet. Dry further with fans and retest.
Step 2: Mix the Product
- Mix well for 2-5 minutes.
Step 3: Test Adhesion
- After confirming dryness, perform an adhesion test: (Required for all applications)
- Select a small, inconspicuous area (e.g., 1 sq ft) on your surface.
- Clean and dry it as outlined above.
- Apply a coat of primer and let it dry for 3-4 hours.
- Check adhesion: Use a utility knife to make a small X-cut, press adhesive tape over it, and pull sharply. If the coating peels off easily, it’s not bonding well. Adjust prep (e.g., more cleaning or drying) and retest if needed.
Step 4: Inspect and Repair
- Once adhesion is confirmed, check for cracks, holes, or irregularities. For cracks up to 1/4", prime if required, then apply Dura-Rubber, embed a 4"-wide reinforcement fabric (2" on each side of the crack), and topcoat with more Dura-Rubber. Alternatively, for small cracks, a quality flexible paintable caulking suitable for underwater use can be applied in lieu of or in conjunction with the fabric tape, followed by a Dura-Rubber topcoat. Let repairs dry 4-8 hours (depending on size, temp, and humidity).
Step 5: Apply Primer is required (Apply a primer coat (typically 250 sq ft/gallon). For other surfaces, prime if needed based on adhesion test results or surface type. Let it dry for 48 hours.
Step 6: Apply Dura-Rubber Coats
- Application Method: Apply by brush, with a 1/4" epoxy roller, or using an airless sprayer with a minimum of 3300psi, 1 gallon per minute and .027 tip or lager. Can be troweled onto using a ¼” notched trowel and smoothed out with a magic trowel. High-Build out of the bucket will self-level miner high spots
- Target Thickness: Aim for a minimum 20 mils dry (40 sq ft/gallon). You can apply up to 46mils or 30mils dry per coat on horizontal surfaces.
- Temperature Check: Apply when the surface temperature (of the material being coated) is between 45°F and rising and 80°F. Use a surface thermometer to confirm—below 45°F, it won’t cure properly; above 80°F, it may dry too fast and crack.
- Drying Between Coats: Wait at least 3-4 hours between coats for Adjust based on temperature and humidity (40-50% RH is optimal; avoid applying above 70% RH). There’s no maximum recoat time—apply the next coat any time after the previous one is fully dry, even days later, as long as the surface remains clean and dry.
- Tips: Start early in the day when temps are rising, but beware of dew if applicable (e.g., for outdoor pools in humid climates—wait until it evaporates, and the surface is dry). Ensure all edges/terminations are above the water line and dry.
Step 7: Cure the Coating
- Curing Time: After the final coat, let it cure for 7-10 days
- Weather Impact: Add 1 extra day for each day of rain or high humidity during curing. At 70°F and 50% RH, 7 days is the minimum
- Why It Matters: The coating is dry to the touch in hours but needs curing to form a solid, waterproof membrane. Filling too early causes gas bubbles.
Step 8: Final Checks
- Avoid Chemicals/Water: Don’t expose the coating to chemicals or continuous water until fully cured.
- Control Sample (Underwater Use): Coat a concrete brick alongside your pool, let it cure, and keep it as a reference.
Key Notes
- Tools Needed: Moisture meter, pressure washer, 1/4" nap epoxy roller, brush, airless sprayer with a minimum of 3300psi 1 gallon per minute and .027 tip or lager, reinforcement fabric, fans, utility knife, adhesive tape (for adhesion test), surface thermometer (for temp check), plastic sheet and duct tape (for moisture test if no meter), wet mil gauge (optional for thickness), medium-grit sandpaper (for glossy surfaces).
- Conditions: Best at 40-50% RH and surface temps of 45°F (rising) to 80°F. Avoid 70%+ RH or temps outside this range to prevent curing or cracking issues.
- Thinning (If needed): If Dura-Rubber needs to be thinned, it can be mixed with up to 10% by volume of propylene glycol.
- High-Build can be thickened up to 2 pounds of crumb rubber mix to a gallon of High-Build.
- Support: Contact the company if unsure about your specific surface or conditions.
Disclaimer
These instructions are based on typical applications and may vary depending on conditions and surfaces you apply to. Please contact support for additional application help. www.rubberizeit.com